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Perennially Fascinating Accounts


Partho Datta

IN THE COUNTRY OF GOLD-DIGGING ANTS: TWO THOUSAND YEARS OF TRAVEL IN INDIA
By Anu Kumar
Puffin Books, Delhi, India, 2009, pp. 191, Rs. 225.00

VOLUME XXXIII NUMBER 11 November 2009

Travellers’ tales are a marvellous way to peep into the past and Anu Kumar has written an accessible and very readable book about journeys to India through the ages. There are eleven chapters, each devoted to a famous traveller who left an account of India. All school children read or know something about Megasthenes or Hiuen Tsang or Ibn Batutah but few have a chance to explore these accounts in more detail. This book gives just that opportunity with a judicious mix of both first-hand experiences of the authors and their observations about India as well as their more extravagant stories, some of which were obviously written to impress audiences back home. If school text books have over the years reduced these tales to factual reporting about the pre-modern world, then this book transforms them into great adventure stories. There are also modern accounts in this book from the twentieth century like that by the Turkish woman author Halide Edib who travelled through India in the 1930s.   What makes these accounts perennially fascinating is the picture of a pre-modern world which contrary to modern conceits was closely integrated. Despite our present-day scepticism about the efficiency of pre-mechanized transport, merchants, mendicants, mercenaries, royal ambassadors, curious scholars and pilgrims managed to cover vast distances by foot, on animals and by sea. The possibility that they would never come back home did not seem to deter these motivated travellers. Seafaring was highly developed and the most exciting places were ports where people from far-flung countries happily cohabited and cemented trading relationships. Local rulers welcomed trading communities giving them permission to practice their religions and build places of worship. Foreign traders brought in exotic goods and years of intermingling produced new forms of dress and cuisine. Borders were also porous and although permission to travel was needed through kingdoms, travelling overland or finding passage in a ship was probably easier in the pre-modern world. However this world was frought with dangers as the well-known American historian Natalie Zemon Davis describes in her latest book Tricksters Travels where a sixteenth century Muslim diplomat from Fez, al-Hasan al-Wazan is captured by pirates, gifted to the Pope and rechristened Joannes Leo. More dreadful things happened to those on the frontiers of colonial expansion which too are engagingly discussed in historian Linda Colley’s Captives which includes the story of Sarah Shade who spent almost a year in ...


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