![]() Travelogue As A Slice Of HistorySucharita Sengupta IN A LAND FAR FROM HOME: A BENGALI IN AFGHANISTAN (DESHE BIDESHE) By Syed Mujtaba Ali . Translated by Nazes Afroz Speaking Tiger Publications, New Delhi, 2015, pp. xxiii 308, Rs. 350.00 VOLUME XL NUMBER 4 April 2016 The painting of tall, grim-looking Afghans
on the cover of In A Land Far
From Home makes for possibly one
of the most deceptive book covers. You’d believe
that here is a heavy, boring, fact-addled
tome on Afghan history. Nothing could be
further from the truth. Syed Mujtaba Ali’s
book, a travelogue that should be treated as
a slice of history, is possibly one of the most
delightful books ever written, and equally
delightfully translated by Nazes Afroz from
the Bengali original, Deshe Bideshe.
Ali, fresh out of a privileged education
and well into callow youth, takes up a teaching
assignment in far-flung Kabul in the later
1920s. The early descriptions of the train
ride from Bengal to the North are pretty
much what one would expect from a goggleeyed
first time traveller, who is able to note
little more than changing landscapes. Soon
enough though, he is gheraoed by Sikhs,
who, in an interaction straight out of a stereotype,
affectionately rib the Bengali for
using his brains too much and his non-existent
brawn too little. The Bengali too ribs
the Punjabis for using their brains too little
and their brawn too much, albeit silently
and inside his own head. The exchange is
hilarious, and by the end of it, everyone in
the train are friends. This is the point at
which Ali starts engaging with strangers,
turning them into lifelong friends; and the
point at which the writing starts moving
beyond descriptions.
Peshawar holds a languid adventure, if
any such thing is possible. Ali is keen to reach
Kabul, but speed is not the way of his Pathan
friends. They keep him in Peshawar for several
weeks, during which time, Ali learns all
about hedonism. Soirees are lavish, filled
with food, drink and music. Conversations
are mini-cultural exchanges—the Pathans
want to satisfy their curiosity about Bengalis
and their strange ways, and Ali is handy in
providing answers, none of which seem to
convince the rambunctious Pathans. When
it appears that Ali has had enough of the
‘good life’ in Peshawar, he is finally directed
towards the sole bus that traverses across the
treacherous Khyber Pass and into Kabul, one
driven by an elderly, nearly-blind Sikh gent.
In the four days that it takes the bus to reach Kabul, the author gets a sense of the
significance of his journey. He was on the
ancient Silk Route. ... Table of Contents >> |